Mike O'Donnell leads the kitchen at the Ilsington Country House Hotel & Spa on Dartmoor, a family-run, quintessential English Country House Hotel.

The award-winning restaurant, with its two AA rosettes, combines the finest local ingredients with modern English flavours, all served with breathtaking views of Haytor. 

We asked Head Chef, Mike, to tell us about himself and what's coming up at his renowned hotel restuarant.

I’ve been a chef for 38 years now, and for 27 of those I’ve had the pleasure of cooking here at Ilsington. Working so closely with the same family over the years has given me the space to develop my own style, while staying true to the quality and consistency our guests expect.

What I enjoy most is seeing familiar faces return again and again, not just for the hotel, but for the food. It’s a real privilege to be part of something that feels so personal to so many.

Your most treasured or earliest food memory?

One of my fondest memories is picking blackberries and apples from my grandmother’s garden and cooking alongside her as a child. She was an incredible cook, the kind who could make magic out of simple ingredients, and I think she’s the reason I found my way into the kitchen in the first place.

Sum up your style of cooking in a three words.

Clean, modern, balanced.

What has been your career highlights so far?

One of the things I’m most proud of is earning, and maintaining, 2 AA Rosettes at Ilsington for over 20 years. It’s taken real dedication, consistency, and strong leadership, but it’s incredibly rewarding to see that hard work recognised year after year.

What is your favourite seasonal ingredient, and how would you serve it?

Living in Devon, it’s hard to choose just one favourite ingredient. We’re lucky to have fresh fish straight from the sea, incredible beef from the moors, and seasonal fruit and veg right on our doorstep. For me, the key is to serve everything simply, letting those beautiful ingredients shine in their own right.

What does ‘sustainable’ mean to you?

For me, sustainability is about protecting the future of the incredible local ingredients we’re so lucky to have here in Devon. It’s about using them responsibly, so we’re not taking more than we should, and ensuring that future generations can enjoy the same quality and abundance that we do today.

Do you have a favourite dish on your menu now and why?

Wild Sea Bass with a smoked fish scotch egg, citrus fennel, celeriac, green beans, sauteed potato and a dill emulsion. You just cannot beat fresh wild sea bass that has come direct from Brixham!

What's your most thumbed recipe book?

I’d have to say Heston’s Fat Duck Cook Book had a huge impact on me. It sparked my fascination with the science behind food and opened the door to the world of modernist cuisine. There’s so much depth and detail in the way food behaves, and understanding that takes cooking to a whole new level.

What are your ambitions for the Ilsington restaurant?

For me, it’s about continuing the quality and consistency we’ve built over the past 27 years. It’s easy to chase awards and accolades, but if that pursuit doesn’t serve the guest or make sense for the business, it simply won’t last. Especially in today’s economic climate, it’s more important than ever to strike the right balance between excellence and sustainability.

What's coming up this season on your menu?

With autumn on the horizon, I’m excited to welcome a new season of local, richly flavoured ingredients. One dish I’m particularly looking forward to sharing is our new Exmoor venison saddle; served with a venison, orange and tarragon faggot, fondant potato, parsnip, braised cabbage and a sloe gin gastrique. It’s packed with depth and character, and really celebrates the best of what this region has to offer.

Visit the Ilsington Country House Hotel & Spa website

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